Day Sixteen - Thursday 23 October 2014 - Boston, MA

After this packed two weeks it is time to go home.  Patte, Dave, Beth, Jack, Phil and I are all on the same Lufthansa flights to Boston:  1:05pm--Krakow to Munich -- then 3:20pm Munich to Boston arriving at 6:20pm.  The flights are uneventful for the most part but oh so cramped even on a brand new plane

It is always good to get home ---this time I am so thankful that we signed up for the Global Entry System with Homeland Security.  We walked right through the Global Entry aisle -- put our passports on a machine face down -- and breezed through in a matter of minutes.   I think we were walking in our front door before most passengers had even gotten through the Immigration line at Logan Airport.    I highly recommend this for anyone who travels internationally.

The "Elegant Elbe" trip was quite an eye opener -- although I have been to Germany a number of times -- it is my first trip to what used to be East Germany and to the Czech Republic and to Poland.   These people have come a very long way in the past 25 years --- especially given what they had been through with the Nazi's and then under Communism.    I applaud each and every one of them for their resilience and ability to move forward with their lives -- it shows in how they have rebuilt their cities and are welcoming tourists.

For those of you still reading -- thanks for your patience.   I truly had very little time to write on this trip because we were so busy.   I did not realize how much I would enjoy writing the half of the blog that I wrote from home after the fact.    It allowed me the opportunity to revisit some of these places and to think more about what we learned and what it means. 

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Fifteen - Wednesday 22 October 2014 - Krakow, Poland

Today we visit the Concentration Camp at Auschwitz -- about 75 minutes from Krakow -- we are in a mini-van -- a bit cramped -- it is raining and raw when we arrive.  Auschwitz opened in May 1940 with Polish political prisoners as the first arrivals.  Exterminations began in September 1941

Matt, our guide, explains that people were brought here for two reasons: 1) to be exterminated, 2) to work in the concentration camp.   A 3rd category was the Auschwitz Prison where people who disobeyed the rules in the concentration camp were sent to be punished and executed usually by firing squad.

"Work Will Make You Free" -- entrance to Auschwitz

 To say this was a sobering visit is an understatement -- I don't think I will ever stop asking myself "How could this have happened in the period just before I was born -- not 1,000 years ago -- but in my parents' lifetime?"

Buildings of Auschwitz

Where prisoners were executed by Firing Squad.

We first toured the buildings that had to do with extermination.  The Nazis had no use for the very old, the very young, pregnant women, young mothers with children and of course people with any kind of infirmity.   All of the above individuals were sent to the gas chambers almost upon arrival at the camp.   Others who were strong were sent to work in the concentration camp either in factories or outside on the farm portion of the camp.

These statistics say it all:

We toured several of the buildings -- all were depressing and so very sad.  Collections of victims' belongings are displayed from shoes, utensils, hair (everyone was shaved), clothing, suitcases, and books.  Just to see the massive mountains of belongings and knowing that this is but a small portion of what was collected before victims were sent to the gas chambers -- most victims' belongings were sent to warehouses in Germany.

All the Traveling Bags and Baskets --

A young woman's outfit ---

We next toured the buildings 

 where those working in the camped lived -- all dormitory style bare bones accommodations.  Everyone wore prison-type uniforms.

Some prisoners were victims of medical experiments from injections which caused disease so they could be watched and when they died their bodies could be autopsied to testing various sterilization procedures on young women.   Josef Mengele, known as the "Angel of Death" operated here -- his interests included how identical twins reacted to the same disease -- when one died he would kill the other to allow side by side autopsies.

Shoes are so personal!

Some of the Faces and their clothing.

The unthinkable happened at
Auschwitz --- and although the weather was awful and it was uncomfortable traipsing through these buildings and around the camp --- it made me think of how unbearable it must have been for those who lived and died here.  Nobody living today can even imagine what most of the people endured here in this "hell on earth". 

Birkeneau -- also known as Auschwitz II -- began in October 1941 and is just down the road -- but we all opted to skip our scheduled visit since we had seen enough -- so the bus driver drove by Birkeneau on our way back to Krakow.

As difficult as it has been to learn about the details of what happed in this place -- I am thankful that I was able to make this visit -- hopefully it will make me more tolerable of others for the rest of my life.   

Model of the Crematorium/Gas Chamber.

Entrance to the actual Crematorium/Gas Chamber.

Our ride back to the Sheraton was quiet and uneventful -- the weather improved and the rain stopped.   We all needed a rest so we agreed to meet in the lobby for dinner -- Phil found a local place just a couple of blocks from our hotel.

We arrive at Restauracja Mieszczanska with the tag line:  "Eclusively here you have the opportunity to try delicacies based on traditional Polish recipes".    We did have very Polish dishes and enjoyed it all --- 

Our wonderful Servers at Restauracja Mieszczanska.

We have thoroughly enjoyed Krakow -- and Phil and I have decided we would come back here given the opportunity.

The Polish people are friendly, fun-loving and oh so resilient --

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Fourteen - Tuesday 21 October 2014 - Krakow, Poland

The Sheraton Krakow is a wonderful hotel --- breakfast has an array of local and traditional foods to get us fueled up for the next couple of busy days

Dragon Spewing Fire!

Katarina, our Guide, takes us on a walking tour beginning with Wawel Hill with its  Castle and Cathedral.   Our first stop, the Dragon of Krakow Sculpture spews fire periodically -- we are lucky enough to witness one of those moments.   Legend has it that a Dragon lived in a cave at the base of Wawel Hill before the founding of the city when all of this was farmland.  Bad luck prevailed if the Dragon was awakened!

Bob and Pat Bringing up the Rear!

View from Wawel Hill of Wisla River!

Moving along we climb up the hill winding our way by the many buildings that make up this complex including the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary dating to 970 ---  the Wawel Cathedral consecrated in 1142 -- and  Wawel Castle, residence to the Polish Kings,  built during the reign of Casmir III (1333 - 1370).     Since 1930 Wawel Castle has been one of Poland's premier art museums.   In addition to collections of world-wide note this museum has ten curatorial departments and seven specialized conservation studios.   Standing in the middle of the plaza on top of Wawel Hill gives one pause when imagining all the people who have lived and worked in these buildings over the past 1,000 years.

Phil with Wawel Cathedral in Background!

 On our way to Krakow's Market Square -- we stop at Jagiellonian University (JU) ---    founded by King Casimir III in 1364 -- because he felt Poland needed an educated class of people to manage the country's administration and laws.   Casimir asked for and received permission to do this from Pope Urban V and subsequently the King funded several chairs: one in liberal arts,  two in medicine, three in canon law and five in roman law using money from proceeds the royal family received from Wieliczka salt mines.   All was going well until Casimir's death in 1370 -- when education stalled.  In the 1390's King Wladyslaw Jagiello and his wife, Saint Jadwiga decided to restore the University.   They acquired a building to house the school  -- then the Queen donated all of her personal jewelry to raise the funds which allowed the enrollment of just over 2000 students.

St. Mary's Basilica

The 1939 Nazi invasion of Poland brought the arrest of 184   professors causing the university to shut its doors until after World War II.  Although open, JU did not thrive under Communism, however after 1991 there was a drastic improvement.  By 2008 enrollment was at more than 52, 000 students with an academic staff of 3600.  Current programs of study are offered in forty-eight disciplines, ninety-three specializations and exchange programs with several universities in the United States.  

Veit Stoss Altar Piece--

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving the JU campus,  we arrive at St. Mary's Basilica in Market Square in time to see the three panel --- three story high altarpiece carved by the German Sculptor, Veit Stoss between 1477 and 1489.  Every day around Noon -- a nun appears and manually opens the Altar piece for viewing --- then we move out to the plaza to hear the trumpeter who plays hourly from one of the Basilica's towers.     It is all about tradition here --  the Polish people have had a tough time over the last century which is what makes these traditions all the more important.  

Chapel of St. Kinga at Weiliczka Salt Mine --

In our group we scatter to grab lunch or do a little shopping before meeting at the hotel for our tour of the Weiliczka Salt Mine -- about a twenty drive from Krakow.

This salt mine is 700 years old -- it closed for commercial salt mining in 1996.   I had no idea what to expect -- but found these statistics astounding:  180 miles of tunnels, 2,040 separate chambers, we travel down 450 feet -- which is not the bottom.   In 1921 there were 2,000 miners and 400 years ago 128 horses lived in the mines to move the salt around -- don't even want to think about having horses down there.

Today -- 200 miners produce about 15,000 tons of salt from salty water -- and 500 guides give tours to an average of 7,000 visitors a day.  

Altar in Chapel of St. Kinga

 There were several creative souls working in the mines over the years -- the sculptures are amazing and everything we see is made from salt -- even chandeliers.    We visit the Holy Cross Chapel -- built in 1860 -- but the St. Kinga Chapel is truly unique.   Accommodating up to 400 guests -- it is used for weddings and a weekly Sunday Mass.    There is a carving of the Last Supper,  a statue of Pope John Paul II,  a Pulpit with staircase as well as altars and other statues.

Pope John Paul II -- Poland's Favorite Son

This was one of the most surprising attractions that we have seen on this or any trip.  

I still cannot get over the fact that everything one sees is made from salt.

Back to the hotel --- we split up for dinner.    Beth, Jack, Phil and I go to a local restaurant -- Restauracya Jarema -- which was a bit of a hike on the other side of the Market Square.   The restaurant is full of locals and some tourists --- the food and service is excellent  and reasonable.   We've noticed that Poland is considerably cheaper than Germany and the Czech Republic.

Pat, Jack and Beth -- outside Restauracya Jarema -- full and happy!

This has been a very busy but wonderful day -- we love Krakow -- it has lots to offer.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat