Day Seven-Tuesday 14 October 2014 - Dessau, Worlitz and Torgau Germany

Today we visit Wittenberg -- home to Martin Luther from 1508 until his death in 1546.   It is here in 1517 that he nailed his 95 Theses to the door of the Wittenberg Castle Church thus setting in motion the Protestant Reformation.    Basically Luther objected to the Catholic Church's corrupt practice of selling indulgences to absolve the faithful of their sins.  This practice had been banned in Germany but continued unabated.  What may have set Luther into motion (since this was not a new issue) was when Friar Johann Tetzel began selling indulgences in Germany to fund the renovation of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome.  It was well known at the time that the Church was quite wealthy.   From the 95 Theses:    "Why does not the pope, whose wealth today is greater than the wealth of the richest Crassus, build the basilica of St. Peter with his own money rather than with the money of poor believers?" (Note: Crassus was a wealthy Roman family)

Monastery where the Luther Family Lived in Wittenberg!

Luther's Living Room with Furnace.

Pat with statue of Katharina von Bora!

 The 95 Theses were distributed throughout Germany ultimately making their way to Rome.  After Luther refused to recant his beliefs, Pope Leo X  excommunicated him in early  1521 --- later that year Holy Roman Emperor Charles V issued the Edict of Worms which ordered Martin Luther's writings  be burned.   Martin Luther then began his ten-year project of translating the New Testament into German.  After hiding in the town of Eisenach for a year, he returned to Wittenberg where he lived for the rest of his life teaching at the old Augustinian Monastery.

I would be remiss if I didn't mention Katharina von Bora, Martin Luther's wife.   Katharina, a former nun and Martin, a former priest were married in 1525 -- she was 26 -- he was 42 .   They lived at the monastery where Martin taught and had six children.   In addition to raising her family, Katharina managed all the holdings of the monastery including a cattle farm and a brewery, as well as dealing with the steady stream of students who lived with them.  Martin died in 1846 being in ill health for more than ten years.  After Martin's death Katharina was forced to live in poverty.  In 1552 she was fleeing Wittenberg to avoid the Black Plague when she was seriously injured in a cart accident entering the city gates of  Torgau -- she died from her injuries three months later.  She was a fascinating person for her time -- and well matched to Martin Luther.  

Our visit to the monastery -- which is now a museum -- gives a good sense of how the Luther family and their students lived in this 16th century center for culture and learning.  

Pat on Wittenberg Street

 From the monastery it is a short walk to Wittenberg's Market Square -- quaint with lots of shops --- many selling chocolate.  In the hour we have to browse around,  Beth and I come across a clothing store where we picked up a few bargains.   In Germany bargains are few and far between --- things are expensive.

Our bus takes us to the Clara Schumann which has moved down the river -- just in time for lunch.   We have the afternoon at leisure as we cruise along the Elbe to Torgau where we will spend the night.

After dinner Stephanie takes us on a walking tour of Torgau.  Our first stop is the memorial to the "Torgau Handshake".   On 26 April 1945 Russian and American troops -- each coming from a different side of the river --  joined hands at this spot in  Torgau.  It was the first step to ending World War II.   By May 1st, Hitler was dead and on May 7th, Germany signed an unconditional surrender.

Hartenfels Castle looking over the Moat

Moving on we visit Hartenfels Castle -- with five brown bears living in the dry moat. Unfortunately the bears must have gone to bed since we don't see them but their habitat is not too shabby.    Also at this castle is the first Protestant Church consecrated by Martin Luther in 1544.

We continue to wander through Torgau into the Market Square.  These small towns are really something at night -- nobody is around --- it feels like a movie set.   Just off the market square sits The Loebner Company, Germany's oldest  toy shop. 

 

Pat in Torgau's Market Square

 Back on board the Clara Schumann they are serving Goulash --- we are never very far from a meal.   I socialize for a few minutes but my bed is calling.  

We have had a very good day on the River Elbe.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat