Day Sixteen - Thursday 23 October 2014 - Boston, MA

After this packed two weeks it is time to go home.  Patte, Dave, Beth, Jack, Phil and I are all on the same Lufthansa flights to Boston:  1:05pm--Krakow to Munich -- then 3:20pm Munich to Boston arriving at 6:20pm.  The flights are uneventful for the most part but oh so cramped even on a brand new plane

It is always good to get home ---this time I am so thankful that we signed up for the Global Entry System with Homeland Security.  We walked right through the Global Entry aisle -- put our passports on a machine face down -- and breezed through in a matter of minutes.   I think we were walking in our front door before most passengers had even gotten through the Immigration line at Logan Airport.    I highly recommend this for anyone who travels internationally.

The "Elegant Elbe" trip was quite an eye opener -- although I have been to Germany a number of times -- it is my first trip to what used to be East Germany and to the Czech Republic and to Poland.   These people have come a very long way in the past 25 years --- especially given what they had been through with the Nazi's and then under Communism.    I applaud each and every one of them for their resilience and ability to move forward with their lives -- it shows in how they have rebuilt their cities and are welcoming tourists.

For those of you still reading -- thanks for your patience.   I truly had very little time to write on this trip because we were so busy.   I did not realize how much I would enjoy writing the half of the blog that I wrote from home after the fact.    It allowed me the opportunity to revisit some of these places and to think more about what we learned and what it means. 

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Fifteen - Wednesday 22 October 2014 - Krakow, Poland

Today we visit the Concentration Camp at Auschwitz -- about 75 minutes from Krakow -- we are in a mini-van -- a bit cramped -- it is raining and raw when we arrive.  Auschwitz opened in May 1940 with Polish political prisoners as the first arrivals.  Exterminations began in September 1941

Matt, our guide, explains that people were brought here for two reasons: 1) to be exterminated, 2) to work in the concentration camp.   A 3rd category was the Auschwitz Prison where people who disobeyed the rules in the concentration camp were sent to be punished and executed usually by firing squad.

"Work Will Make You Free" -- entrance to Auschwitz

 To say this was a sobering visit is an understatement -- I don't think I will ever stop asking myself "How could this have happened in the period just before I was born -- not 1,000 years ago -- but in my parents' lifetime?"

Buildings of Auschwitz

Where prisoners were executed by Firing Squad.

We first toured the buildings that had to do with extermination.  The Nazis had no use for the very old, the very young, pregnant women, young mothers with children and of course people with any kind of infirmity.   All of the above individuals were sent to the gas chambers almost upon arrival at the camp.   Others who were strong were sent to work in the concentration camp either in factories or outside on the farm portion of the camp.

These statistics say it all:

We toured several of the buildings -- all were depressing and so very sad.  Collections of victims' belongings are displayed from shoes, utensils, hair (everyone was shaved), clothing, suitcases, and books.  Just to see the massive mountains of belongings and knowing that this is but a small portion of what was collected before victims were sent to the gas chambers -- most victims' belongings were sent to warehouses in Germany.

All the Traveling Bags and Baskets --

A young woman's outfit ---

We next toured the buildings 

 where those working in the camped lived -- all dormitory style bare bones accommodations.  Everyone wore prison-type uniforms.

Some prisoners were victims of medical experiments from injections which caused disease so they could be watched and when they died their bodies could be autopsied to testing various sterilization procedures on young women.   Josef Mengele, known as the "Angel of Death" operated here -- his interests included how identical twins reacted to the same disease -- when one died he would kill the other to allow side by side autopsies.

Shoes are so personal!

Some of the Faces and their clothing.

The unthinkable happened at
Auschwitz --- and although the weather was awful and it was uncomfortable traipsing through these buildings and around the camp --- it made me think of how unbearable it must have been for those who lived and died here.  Nobody living today can even imagine what most of the people endured here in this "hell on earth". 

Birkeneau -- also known as Auschwitz II -- began in October 1941 and is just down the road -- but we all opted to skip our scheduled visit since we had seen enough -- so the bus driver drove by Birkeneau on our way back to Krakow.

As difficult as it has been to learn about the details of what happed in this place -- I am thankful that I was able to make this visit -- hopefully it will make me more tolerable of others for the rest of my life.   

Model of the Crematorium/Gas Chamber.

Entrance to the actual Crematorium/Gas Chamber.

Our ride back to the Sheraton was quiet and uneventful -- the weather improved and the rain stopped.   We all needed a rest so we agreed to meet in the lobby for dinner -- Phil found a local place just a couple of blocks from our hotel.

We arrive at Restauracja Mieszczanska with the tag line:  "Eclusively here you have the opportunity to try delicacies based on traditional Polish recipes".    We did have very Polish dishes and enjoyed it all --- 

Our wonderful Servers at Restauracja Mieszczanska.

We have thoroughly enjoyed Krakow -- and Phil and I have decided we would come back here given the opportunity.

The Polish people are friendly, fun-loving and oh so resilient --

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Fourteen - Tuesday 21 October 2014 - Krakow, Poland

The Sheraton Krakow is a wonderful hotel --- breakfast has an array of local and traditional foods to get us fueled up for the next couple of busy days

Dragon Spewing Fire!

Katarina, our Guide, takes us on a walking tour beginning with Wawel Hill with its  Castle and Cathedral.   Our first stop, the Dragon of Krakow Sculpture spews fire periodically -- we are lucky enough to witness one of those moments.   Legend has it that a Dragon lived in a cave at the base of Wawel Hill before the founding of the city when all of this was farmland.  Bad luck prevailed if the Dragon was awakened!

Bob and Pat Bringing up the Rear!

View from Wawel Hill of Wisla River!

Moving along we climb up the hill winding our way by the many buildings that make up this complex including the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary dating to 970 ---  the Wawel Cathedral consecrated in 1142 -- and  Wawel Castle, residence to the Polish Kings,  built during the reign of Casmir III (1333 - 1370).     Since 1930 Wawel Castle has been one of Poland's premier art museums.   In addition to collections of world-wide note this museum has ten curatorial departments and seven specialized conservation studios.   Standing in the middle of the plaza on top of Wawel Hill gives one pause when imagining all the people who have lived and worked in these buildings over the past 1,000 years.

Phil with Wawel Cathedral in Background!

 On our way to Krakow's Market Square -- we stop at Jagiellonian University (JU) ---    founded by King Casimir III in 1364 -- because he felt Poland needed an educated class of people to manage the country's administration and laws.   Casimir asked for and received permission to do this from Pope Urban V and subsequently the King funded several chairs: one in liberal arts,  two in medicine, three in canon law and five in roman law using money from proceeds the royal family received from Wieliczka salt mines.   All was going well until Casimir's death in 1370 -- when education stalled.  In the 1390's King Wladyslaw Jagiello and his wife, Saint Jadwiga decided to restore the University.   They acquired a building to house the school  -- then the Queen donated all of her personal jewelry to raise the funds which allowed the enrollment of just over 2000 students.

St. Mary's Basilica

The 1939 Nazi invasion of Poland brought the arrest of 184   professors causing the university to shut its doors until after World War II.  Although open, JU did not thrive under Communism, however after 1991 there was a drastic improvement.  By 2008 enrollment was at more than 52, 000 students with an academic staff of 3600.  Current programs of study are offered in forty-eight disciplines, ninety-three specializations and exchange programs with several universities in the United States.  

Veit Stoss Altar Piece--

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving the JU campus,  we arrive at St. Mary's Basilica in Market Square in time to see the three panel --- three story high altarpiece carved by the German Sculptor, Veit Stoss between 1477 and 1489.  Every day around Noon -- a nun appears and manually opens the Altar piece for viewing --- then we move out to the plaza to hear the trumpeter who plays hourly from one of the Basilica's towers.     It is all about tradition here --  the Polish people have had a tough time over the last century which is what makes these traditions all the more important.  

Chapel of St. Kinga at Weiliczka Salt Mine --

In our group we scatter to grab lunch or do a little shopping before meeting at the hotel for our tour of the Weiliczka Salt Mine -- about a twenty drive from Krakow.

This salt mine is 700 years old -- it closed for commercial salt mining in 1996.   I had no idea what to expect -- but found these statistics astounding:  180 miles of tunnels, 2,040 separate chambers, we travel down 450 feet -- which is not the bottom.   In 1921 there were 2,000 miners and 400 years ago 128 horses lived in the mines to move the salt around -- don't even want to think about having horses down there.

Today -- 200 miners produce about 15,000 tons of salt from salty water -- and 500 guides give tours to an average of 7,000 visitors a day.  

Altar in Chapel of St. Kinga

 There were several creative souls working in the mines over the years -- the sculptures are amazing and everything we see is made from salt -- even chandeliers.    We visit the Holy Cross Chapel -- built in 1860 -- but the St. Kinga Chapel is truly unique.   Accommodating up to 400 guests -- it is used for weddings and a weekly Sunday Mass.    There is a carving of the Last Supper,  a statue of Pope John Paul II,  a Pulpit with staircase as well as altars and other statues.

Pope John Paul II -- Poland's Favorite Son

This was one of the most surprising attractions that we have seen on this or any trip.  

I still cannot get over the fact that everything one sees is made from salt.

Back to the hotel --- we split up for dinner.    Beth, Jack, Phil and I go to a local restaurant -- Restauracya Jarema -- which was a bit of a hike on the other side of the Market Square.   The restaurant is full of locals and some tourists --- the food and service is excellent  and reasonable.   We've noticed that Poland is considerably cheaper than Germany and the Czech Republic.

Pat, Jack and Beth -- outside Restauracya Jarema -- full and happy!

This has been a very busy but wonderful day -- we love Krakow -- it has lots to offer.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Day Thirteen - Monday 20 October 2014 - Prague, Czech Republic to Krakow, Poland

Our route from Prague, Czech Republic to Krakow, Poland

 By 8:00 am -- eighteen of us are on the bus to Krakow with Radke, as our guide and two drivers.  Others are either extending in Prague or going home.   Our ETA in Krakow is late afternoon.  Our first comfort stop at 9:45 am is McDonalds along the highway -- just before passing through Moravia -- the Czech Republic's 2nd largest city which expressed an interest in seceding to become their own country -- it did not work out.  This road is very bumpy -- Radke mentions it was built by the Communists.   

Lunch Spot along the Route

Radke points out various cities and points of interest as our journey continues through the Czech countryside.  At 11:30 am we stop for lunch at "Motorest Podkova" -- looks like a Best Western.  The food was good and hearty -- we all enjoyed our meals and the lovely dessert pastries.  During lunch I noticed our guide and the two drivers having lunch just across the dining room.   The two drivers had at least one beer each with their meals, Radke had a coke.   This was not very comforting since we are just half-way to Krakow -- but we are in the Czech Republic where beer was invented.

My view while having Lunch.

 At 1:50 pm -- we have another comfort stop at a KFC in a roadside rest area and by 2:21 pm we enter Poland.

Poland is a country with 40 million people --the 6th most populous country in the European Union which they entered in 2004 --- 97% of the people are native to Poland and  87% are Roman Catholic.  The currency is the Zlotsky which is worth about 30 cents.   At 4:00 pm we approach Krakow and by 4:30 pm we pull up in front of the Sheraton Krakow.  It is on the Wisla River, a ten minute walk to Krakow's Main Market Square and from which we can see Wawel Castle.

The rooms are nice -- the hotel is well located -- free wifi in the lobby -- I think we're going to like it here.

Dinner -- 1st night in Krakow.

Our group is now eight:  Beth, Jack, Anne, Bob, Patte, Dave, Phil and me.  We meet in the lobby at 5:45 for dinner at "Miod Molina" --- and then to a concert at St. Peter and Paul Church. Everyone's meals are good as is the service --  and a marching bagpipe band parades by as we are dining --- this is a lively place.   Thank you, Phil, for finding yet another good place to dine.

Musicians at St. Peter and Paul Church in Krakow.

 Many of the churches have one-hour concerts in the evenings -- admission is about $20.  Thanks to Bob for finding this concert which was most enjoyable.

We have a pleasant walk back to the Sheraton -- our home for the next three days.

Thanks for Reading

Pat

Day Twelve - Sunday 19 October 2014 - Melnik and Prague, Czech Republic

At 9:30 am -- after breakfast we bid "adieu" to the Clara Schumann and board the bus for Prague.  Alexandra, our guide, educates us about Prague and the country it resides in:   40% of the Czech Republic's Gross Domestic Product comes from three areas:   Manufacturing cars, trains, and scooters,  Beer production (more beer is consumed here than any other country in the world) and Glass -- from fine crystal made into glassware and jewelry to inexpensive Christmas decorations.    Prague is a city of 1.3 million people with 25% of their income generated by tourism.   The Vltava River runs through the middle of Prague, which escaped major bombing during World War II leaving most of its beautiful architecture in tact.    On arrival, we stop at our hotel for a comfort stop and to drop off  luggage.

Phil on Old Town Square, Prague.

Our city tour begins about 10:45 am -- first to old town where we see the Vyscherad Castle dating to the founding of the city in the 9th century -- it sits high on a hill with good visibility along the Vltava -- inside is St. Peter and Paul Church.   Alexandra takes us to Prague's Old Town Square -- a large plaza with lovely buildings around its perimeter housing restaurants and shops.   

Prague's Astronomical Clock

Vltava River with Charles Bridge in background.

 Also on this square is the Prague Astronomical Clock -- installed on the southern wall of Old Town's City Hall in 1410.  It is the third oldest astronomical clock in the world -- and the only one still working.  The clock has three main components:  the astronomical dial representing the position of the Sun and the Moon, the "Walk of the Apostles" representing the 12 apostles and other figures which parade on the hour, and a calendar dial with medallions representing the months.    As the noon hour approaches -- the crowd gathers to watch as the clock does what it was made to do more than 600 years ago. Here is a link to my video to see the clock in motion:   http://youtu.be/9NvhvCmxunU.

 

We leave old town walking across the Charles Bridge.   This pedestrian bridge, commissioned by Charles IV in 1357 and completed more than 50 years later,  spans sixteen arches and is lined on either side with thirty baroque statues of religious figures.   It is packed with tourists, street artists and vendors selling wares from food to jewelry.  It does give one the best view of the Vltava River as well as both sides of the city.

Once over the bridge -- we stop for lunch on our own.   Dave decided to go back to the hotel so Patte, Phil and I find a nice quiet place called "Jo's" --- we had goulash with boiled bread, a Czech traditional dish, it was okay and filled the void.   Patte and I pop into a few shops on our way back to the meeting place -- and of course we bump into Beth who is way ahead of us on the shopping front.

Creepy!

Patte and Beth at the Baby's Behind!

After lunch -- as we stroll through a park to meet our bus, we pass David Cerny's   sculpture called "Babies" -- these are huge crawling babies without faces -- apparently there are ten of these throughout the city -- some are crawling up a TV tower.   You should google him -- a Czech, he's famous for his controversial public sculptures -- which offend and amuse at the same time.  I must admit I found these sculptures to be somewhat creepy.

Spires of St Vitus Cathedral loom over Prague Castle.

Our next stop is Prague Castle  -- the largest ancient castle in the world.  The size of seven football fields this complex has been built and renovated over the course of thirteen centuries.   The President of the Czech Republic and the Archbishop of Prague both have residences here -- as well as numerous government and church offices.    The Metropolitan Cathedral of Saints Vitus, Wenceslaus and Adalbert but called St. Vitus Cathedral is smack dab in the middle of this complex on a very large plaza.  Founded in 1344 and the third religious building on the site -- it took 600 years to be completed just in time for the St. Wenceslas Jubilee in 1929.   Upon exiting the castle complex, we come to another plaza  and a  great view of the city --- it seems like you really can see forever.

Dinner at Billy Konecek's in Prague!

 Back at the hotel about 5:00 pm -- there is no rest for the weary -- we are on the 6:00 pm shuttle bus back to Prague's Old Town Square for dinner reservations at Billy Konecek's housed in a building on the square which dates to the 12th century.

There are fourteen of us (Jim and Jeanne from California join for dinner).  Phil has done it again -- all of our meals are good -- and the ambiance is medieval as we are down about three stories in the cellar section of the building.

Back on the square -- we are fortunate to catch the last night of the 2014 Prague Light Show.  Similar to Berlin --- a medley of colorful shapes and forms are projected onto buildings throughout the city.    As we wait for the shuttle bus back to the hotel we enjoy this magnificent show.

Our room at the Corinthia Hotel is quite nice -- too bad we're only here for one night.  Tomorrow we are off to Krakow, Poland.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

One more thing -- during our walking tour in Prague we stopped at the Lennon Wall in Grand Priory Square.   Since the 1980's it has been filled with graffiti inspired by lyrics from Beatles songs.   It was, at best, an irritation to the Communists since young Czech's used the wall to write their grievances in the late 1980's.    The wall is owned by the Knights of Malta who have allowed the writings on the wall to continue.  It is now a place where global ideas are expressed.

Pat by the tree at the Lennon Wall in Prague.

Day Eleven - Saturday 18 October 2014 - Litomerice, Czech Republic

At 5:00 am while we are sleeping the Clara Schumann leaves Decin for Litomerice.  After breakfast Stefanie holds a disembarkation briefing for tomorrow when we leave the boat in Melnick -- then board a bus to Prague for one night.

Litomerice, Czech Republic

Our options today are the walking tour of Litomerice which includes a visit to the Labut Brewery to taste the beers of the Bohemian region of the Czech Republic,  or a visit to Terezin , a former concentration camp.    Some of us opt for the beer tasting since we will be visiting Auschwitz when we are in Krakow and that is enough.

The Clara Schumann arrives in Litomerice about 1:00 pm.    The town is nice enough but everything closes Saturday afternoon through Sunday -- so there is not much to see except for the exteriors of the buildings and the central market square.  

From Mark, our guide, we learn that the Czech Republic is a landlocked country --about the size of Scotland -- with a population of 10.2 million people -- 10% of whom live in Prague. It is bordered by Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Poland.   

Litomerice is at the confluence of the Elbe and Ohre Rivers in an area known as the Garden of Bohemia -- it is thought to be one of the prettiest areas of the Czech Republic.  Emerging as a town in the 11th Century, Litomerice came into its own during the Renaissance in the 16th Century when the Italian architect, Ambrose Balli built the town hall with its chalice-like dome and the Black Eagle House.

A street in Litomerice.

Czech's love their beer -- consuming more than any other country in the world at 320 pints per person annually.  The first Czech brewery was established in the 12th Century.   The town of Pilsen is where  pilsner-style pale lager was originally produced in 1842 -- it is now a brewing mecca.    Every year in May a seventeen-day beer festival is held in Prague -- I can just imagine.

We move on to the Labut Brewery --- we are served three healthy mugs of different beers to taste with platters of meats, cheeses and breads. These people are most welcoming and do a very nice job -- all the beers are good.

At the Labut Brewery.

Back on board the Clara Schumann -- it is time to pack and make our preparations for disembarkation -- paying the bill and deciding on the tipping.  At 6:30 the Captain's Cocktail Party takes place -- where all thirty-five members of the crew are brought into the lounge so we can say good bye.  This is followed by a dinner with lots of food and merry-making.

Officers of the Clara Schumann!

 We have had a very good last day on the Elbe River.

Thanks for Reading

Pat

Phil and Dave Solving the Problems of the World!

Day Ten - Friday 17 October 2014 - Bad Schandau, Germany and Decin, Czech Republic

Today our morning is spent at leisure -- I try to organize our photos which are way too many while half listening to Stephanie's lecture on the Czech Republic -- our destination for this evening.

Lovely Town along the Elbe River

After lunch we dock in Bad Shandau, Germany -- this is a spa town with iron-rich springs discovered in the late-18th Century.  Visitors came in droves launching the development of hotels, parks, a "spa-house" and even an early tram system.   This picturesque town has been the back  drop for a number of movies.  

View from Up High by Rock Castle.

However -- we are heading out of town to visit the Bastei Plateau in Saxon Switzerland located in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains.   On our forty minute  drive we pass through several small towns including Hohnstein and Rathwalde--where a tunnel under the road is being built so frogs can cross safely.  I kid you not -- that is what our guide, Sylvia, told us.

Bride and Groom Sawing Wood.

Upon arriving in the National Park we have a short walk to an area with a hotel and tourists shops --- we see a crowd gathered around a bride and groom sawing a log.   This is an old German wedding tradition representing the first obstacle the couple must overcome in their marriage.  

The view from the overlook here is stunning -- you can see the Elbe River snaking its way to the Czech Republic border.   For those more adventurous -- a climb to the remnants of a 13th Century Rock Castle is in order.    Here we find the remains of a chapel, a cistern, and indents in the rocks where a floor or a roof once made this rock formation a place to live.    The inhabitants must have felt quite safe here since they could see for miles in all directions for approaching visitors -- friendly or not.

Patte Climbing Around Rock Castle.

Rendition of what the Rock Castle would have looked like.

Pat and Dave with Organ Grinder.

We have quite the Welcoming Committee on our return to the Clara Schumann -- including Phil who stayed on board because of his phobia of heights.

Shortly after we're back on board -- the Clara Schumann pulls away from the dock in Bad Schandau at 5:00 pm for Decin in the Czech Republic.

Bob, Anne, Phil and I attend the reception for previous cruisers -- a bit ridiculous since it was in the same lounge where everyone else was sitting -- except our tables had cloths on them.     After dinner there was a musical trivia game -- we split into two groups of six each.  Coming in first and second, I'm afraid we might have been a bit obnoxious about our wins.

It was a wonderful day on the Elbe River.

Thanks for Reading.

Pat

Welcoming Committee - Phil on the Right!

Evening Arrival in Decin in the Czech Republic